caring for perennial fruits

*crandall currant blooms // apricot blooms // fresh plum curculio bites on young apricots*

Perennial fruits are so lovely to have in the garden. Beauty! Fruit warm from the sun! That sparkly relationship that develops when you tend to something that gives you nourishment! But they have their challenges.

Some of these plants have higher susceptibility to pests and diseases. Many of the fruits we commonly grow have been developed through centuries of careful plant breeding - for suitability to a specific location and climate, desired fruit characteristics, plant shapes and management styles - and are then adopted and grown around the world. That can leave them less able to fend for themselves than a native plant with wider genetic diversity, growing within its desired habitat and plant community. When we plant them in our home gardens, it can be frustrating when they struggle with pests, diseases, and low (or no) yield.

Over the years I have developed a set of guidelines that helps me understand and address problems that arise with perennial fruits in my garden and small orchard. I find it helpful to come back to this framework because there is truly infinite information out there about plant diseases, pests, and what to do about them; but I find that most plant health issues can be addressed by paying close attention and going back to the basics. If the problem persists after the basics are sorted, then it could be time to explore strategies that require higher technique, labor, and financial capacity.

This is an overview. People have devoted their entire lives to learning about each of the topics mentioned below. There are truly beautiful worlds to explore - please dive in! But I want to share these guidelines in a digestible, actionable way so that you can head out into the garden and do the most important thing - build relationships with the plants around you.

And if you’d like to look at your fruits and go through these guidelines with a friend, get in touch! We can set up a support session and get to work.

*apple scab // pear bud cluster // violets in the understory // brown rot showing up in young cherries*

first : OBSERVATION!

Regular, frequent observation is your best tool. Weekly observation is ideal, but find a rhythm that works for you. Eyes on the plants is the most important thing, whether or not you see something significant. Take pictures, notes, share observations with others when possible. This will help you develop familiarity with the plant, get to know their cycles, monitor fruit set and ripening, and notice problems before they become a big deal. As a bonus, this is an opportunity to look closely and experience a lot of BEAUTY.

This is also a time to make a note of the weather. Weather at critical fruit development times (bud, bloom, fruit set) makes a huge difference in fruit set and quality, and it is easy to forget later in the season. I’ve definitely been confused by the lack of fruit on an apple tree in September, after summer wiped away any memory of that quick cold snap in mid-May. Taking notes can help us put the pieces together.

*brown rot on apple buds // apple blossom // leaf roller damage on apple shoots*

second :

If any problem arises, check on these six things. Are they working well? What needs to be adjusted? These things are responsible for the majority of tree health. Often when a problem arises, the tendency is to reach for a dramatic response (trapping, spraying, etc.), but the majority of the time the fix can be found with these boring but essential basics. It’s like checking in on rest, hydration, and nourishment when a person is feeling ill. Address these things, give it a season (or two!) to respond, then consider further interventions.

Can sun hit all the branches, including the center of the tree? Sun needs to be able to reach the branches for fruiting buds to develop. When sun hits the leaves in the early morning, it dries off the leaves before disease can set in. Do we need to prune this winter to open things up?

SUN ACCESS

Does air flow through the branches? Do we need to prune to open it up? Air flow drying off leaves does a lot to prevent disease. This also applies to the trunk - make sure air can circulate around the trunk base / root flare.

AIR FLOW

Is the understory full of a diversity of plants that attract beneficial insects? Is there something flowering at all times of the year? Are tiny wild bees present during bloom time? Do you see a lot of insects flying around during the warmer months? Are there year-round insect hiding places? E.g. piles of leaves, old plant stems and canes, loose soil. Insects are our best allies for pest control - make them happy!

INSECT HABITAT

Diseases and pests cycle through old fruit or diseased wood staying on the tree or falling to the ground. Is old fruit hanging on the trees? Is there fruit rotting on the ground? Are diseased branches on the ground or in a pile near the living trees? Break the disease cycles by gathering that material and burying, burning, or composting it (high compost temps are required to kill most pathogens).

SANITATION

Healthy soil moisture level is key to fruit production. Plants will drop their fruit and leaves and set fewer fruiting buds for next season in periods of prolonged, repetitive drought. Most fruit trees are unhappy in consistently wet soils and experience poor anchoring, lots of root rot, and much shorter lifespans (there are some wet-soil loving exceptions). Check in on your moisture levels throughout the growing season and adjust what seems out of balance.

MOISTURE LEVEL

*comfrey with skipper // pale echinacea // Liatris (aspera I think?) with monarchs*

third :

If the six factors in the second step are addressed and your plants are still having problems, it could be time for more intensive options. These tend to require more financial, technique and labor capacity, and will only be effective if the foundational aspects of plant health are functioning well.

There are traps designed to attract and kill specific pests that are common to fruit plantings. They require high awareness of pest and plant seasonal cycles to be effective, and can be highly effective when managed well.

TRAPPING

There are many many MANY organic foliar spray options. Some are designed to boost fertility, others designed to repel pests or build a plants’ immunity to pest and disease injury. There are homemade and purchased options. Foliar spraying can be a full time gig - you can go deep! Or you can choose a few sprays that address specific needs in your garden.

FOLIAR SPRAYING

*plum blossoms // ripening juneberries // plum in bud*

before planting :

If you’re planning a planting and not dealing with existing trees - you have an excellent opportunity to preempt many problems.

Species and variety make a big difference in a plants ability to thrive in a certain context. Fruits have been bred for a huge variety of soil types, climate contexts, scales and styles of production. Get to know your context then do some research about what will do well for you. There are many factors to consider, but soil type, climate, irrigation availability, management style, production needs / expectations and perhaps most importantly WHAT YOU LIKE TO EAT are all good places to start.

CHOOSING VARIETIES

Pre-planting is a valuable time to get your plants off on strong footing. When where you will plant your fruit, go back to the six factors in step two and take those into account. Where are the wet spots you should avoid? Where is there enough sun for good fruit set? Is the spot accessible so you can get in there for observation, harvest and management? You also have an opportunity to prepare the site and set yourself up for success. Cover crops, organic matter application and weed suppression are all easiest before plants go in the ground.